Our Recipe of the Month is for Greek Moussaka. Though the dish demands a certain finesse and time to prepare, our recipe ensures that you can create a culinary delight ideal for both dinner parties and everyday family meals.

 

Moussaka, a signature Greek dish, enjoys popularity in Greece and in Greek restaurants around the world. Thought to have Arabic roots, the name is derived from the Arabic word "musaqqa’a," meaning "chilled." Greece adopted the dish during the Ottoman era. However, the modern Greek moussaka, characterized by its layers of eggplant, meat sauce, and creamy béchamel, took shape in the 1920s. This transformation is credited to Nikolaos Tselementes, a renowned Greek chef who incorporated the French béchamel sauce into the dish. As eggplants hail from South Asia, this dish exemplifies how contemporary meals often reflect centuries, even millennia, of cultural and material exchange. Notably, Tselementes' now-standard version uses béchamel sauce. While the name of this versatile sauce is attributed to Louis de Béchameil, a 17th-century steward of French King Louis XIV, its origins are likely rooted in 14th-century Italy.

A traditional Greek Moussaka is composed of eggplant, meat (typically lamb or beef), crowned with a lush béchamel sauce. Some versions opt for potatoes instead of eggplant, which is an option for those sensitive to eggplant. I think zucchini would be an excellent substitute as well. Salting the eggplant, a method known as "degorging," not only diminishes its bitterness but may also eliminate specific allergens. Since many allergens reside in the skin, peeling further minimizes potential reactions. Still, individuals with severe eggplant allergies should proceed with caution, as no technique guarantees absolute safety. Degorging also ensures the eggplant slices don't become watery, facilitating browning.

A brief digression on eggplants: the term "eggplant" is primarily used in the United States, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada due to early varieties imported into these countries resembled eggs in shape and color. In many regions, including England, they're termed "Aubergine" – a name rooted in Sanskrit, which evolved as the vegetable (technically a berry fruit) journeyed from South Asia, through Persia, Arabia, Iberia, and finally, France. In Indian cuisine, where it's a staple, it's called "brinjal". While American eggplants are sizable and purple, Asian variants are often more petite and elongated. Thai cuisine prominently features eggplants, utilizing at least five distinct types.

To balance the decadence of Moussaka, pair it with a crisp Greek salad and some crusty bread for a delightful contrast.

Cook's notes:

1. While the listed proportions resemble most Moussaka recipes I've encountered, I'd recommend doubling the ingredients for the meat sauce. The current quantity is insufficient to form more than two layers, though the béchamel sauce quantity seems perfect.
2. The choice of slicing the eggplant lengthwise or crosswise is yours. Crosswise slices prove slightly easier to fry. Frying this quantity of eggplant demands a generous amount of olive oil.
3. While most recipes (including mine) label the white sauce in Moussaka as "Béchamel Sauce," the inclusion of two eggs transforms it from a thick, somewhat pasty consistency to a lighter, more custard-like texture and flavor – and it's delicious!
4. Next time, I'd set aside some chopped parsley for garnishing.
5. After frying, allow excess oil to drain from the eggplant slices back into the pan.

Ingredients:

• 2-3 large eggplants, sliced into 3/8 inch slices (enough to layer a 13" x 9" baking dish 3 times)
• Salt for degorging
• Olive oil
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 lb ground lamb or beef (or a mix of both)
• 1 can (14 oz) crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup red wine (optional)
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1 tsp ground allspice
• 1/4 cup fresh parsley, chopped
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan or Kefalotyri cheese
• 1/4 cup breadcrumbs
• Salt and pepper to taste

For the Béchamel Sauce:

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 3 cups whole milk
• 2 eggs
• 1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
• Salt and white pepper, to taste

Preparation:

1. Salt the eggplant slices on both sides and place them on a wire rack (or paper towels). Let them sit for about 30 minutes to release their moisture. Afterwards, rinse the slices thoroughly and pat dry with a paper towel.
2. In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium heat. Fry the eggplant slices, in batches, until they are golden brown on both sides. Remove and set aside on a paper towel or a paper rack.
3. In the same skillet, add more oil if needed and sauté the onions and garlic until translucent.
4. Add the ground meat and cook until browned. Drain any excess fat.
5. Add the crushed tomatoes, red wine, cinnamon, allspice, and parsley. Reduce the heat and let it simmer for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
6. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
7. For the béchamel sauce, melt the butter in a saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute.
8. Gradually whisk in the milk, and cook on medium heat, stirring continuously until the sauce thickens.
9. Remove the sauce from the stove, let it cool for a few minutes.
10. Whisk in the eggs, nutmeg, salt, and pepper until smooth.
11. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
12. In a baking dish, layer the bottom with eggplant slices. Top with half of the meat mixture, followed by another layer of eggplant.
13. Repeat the layering process until all the eggplant and meat mixture are used.
14. Pour the béchamel sauce over the top layer, spreading it evenly. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and breadcrumbs.
15. Bake in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until the top is golden brown. If the top browns too quickly, you can cover it with aluminum foil.
16. Remove the Moussaka from the oven and allow to cool for at least 20 minutes before serving. (This will help the layers set and make it easier to cut and serve).
17. Serve with a Greek salad and some crusty bread.

Καλή όρεξη! ("Kalí óreksi!", Greek for bon appétit)

Recipe and photo by T. Johnston-O'Neill