Our Recipe of the Month is for Czech Smažený Sýr with Tatar Sauce, an adored comfort food of relatively recent origin. It pairs very well with the Czech Republic's most favorite brew, Pilsner Urquell!

In the heart of Central Europe, where beer flows freely and comfort food reigns supreme, Smažený Sýr (Czech fried cheese) holds a special place. It’s the kind of dish that speaks to a national love of dairy and deep frying, served everywhere from Prague’s pubs to highway rest stops. Smažák (as it’s affectionately shortened) is as satisfying as it is simple: a golden, crunchy crust encasing a molten interior of cheese, traditionally Gouda, Edam, or Hermelín. It’s typically served with fries and a creamy side of tatarská omáčka (Czech tartar sauce). People also use Smažený Sýr to make sandwiches.

Tartar sauce, a creamy but tangy condiment, has its origins in France where it is called "Sauce Tatare" that was originally a condiment to complement steak tartare, a dish of spiced raw ground or minced beef. The word "Tartar" is fancifully linked to the "Turco-Mongol warriors" of history, who were thought (although with little evidence to support such a notion)  to have tenderized meat by placing it under their war horses’ saddles. The term "Tartar" is associated with raw food in France. Today, Tartar sauce is most frequently enjoyed with fried seafood. But in the Czech and Slovak republics, it is an absolutely required complement to fried cheese. Smažený Sýr is of relatively recent origin; it dates to Soviet occupation times in which food was scarce. However, today it enjoyed as the premiere Czech comfort food which is especially enjoyed by college students on a budget. In addition to tartar sauce, Smažený Sýr is often enjoyed with french fries and a pilsner lager. The most famous pilsner lager is Pilsner Urquell. The name is composed of German words, but the beer itself is Czech and its German name translates to "the original source for Pilsen". Pilsen is the German name for the town of Plzeň in the western part of the Czech Republic. While Pilsner Urquell was trademarked in 1898, in the Czech Republic, the beer is often called by its Czech name: Plzeňský Prazdroj.

Fried cheese is found in other European cuisine as well, the most notable is Italian fried mozzarella or Greek saganaki, but eating with tartar sauce is mostly found in the Czech and Slovak republics.

Cook's notes:

1. Smažený Sýr is breaded in a typical way with containers of flour, egg, and breadcrumbs. Americans can use plain breadcrumbs or Italian breadcrumbs. Breading can be a bit messy; the best way to lessen the mess is to use the "two-handed method" where one hand is only used for the dry ingredients (flour, breadcrumbs) while the other hand is only used for the beaten egg. As will most fried breaded foods, an important step is to pat the cheese dry before you begin. Flour adheres to wet food less well. The cheese can be cut either into small blocks or thick slices, the latter being more typical. Normal deli-sliced cheese is too thin.

2. A variety of cheese can be used to make Smažený Sýr in addition to Gouda, Edam, or Hermelín (a Czech cheese similar to Camembert). In addition to Gouda, we tried both Monterey Jack and Havarti, and both worked fine.

3. Cheese melts when heated. To keep the cheese within the breading, it is helpful to freeze the breaded cheese beforehand. My guess is that this is even more important if you use a semi-soft cheese like Hermelín. If using slices, 15 minutes should be more than sufficient.

4. English tartar sauce typically uses lemon juice to impart a touch of sour, but pickle juice is more common in Tatarská Omáčka

Ingredients:

• 4 slices of semi-hard cheese (Edam, Gouda, or even Swiss), about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1 cup breadcrumbs (fine, dry)
• Oil for frying (sunflower or vegetable oil)
• Salt to taste

Preparation:

1. Pat the cheese slices dry with paper towels or a cloth.
2. Set up a breading station with three shallow bowls: flour, beaten eggs, and breadcrumbs.
3. Dredge each cheese slice first in flour, then in egg, then in breadcrumbs. For a sturdier crust, repeat the egg and breadcrumb steps a second time.
4. Place breaded slices in the freezer for 10–15 minutes to firm up.
5. Heat about 1/2 inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat.
6. Fry the cheese slices until golden brown and crispy, about 1–2 minutes per side. Flip carefully—cheese can leak if overcooked.
7. Drain on paper towels and serve hot with tartar sauce and a wedge of lemon.

Czech Tartar Sauce (Tatarská Omáčka)

Ingredients:

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped pickles (ideally Czech-style gherkins)
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
• 1 teaspoon Dijon or Czech-style mustard
• 1/2 teaspoon white vinegar or pickle brine
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preparation:

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly.
2. Let it sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to allow flavors to meld.
3. Taste and adjust with more mustard, brine, or salt as needed.

Serving Suggestion: Pair your smažený sýr with crispy fries, a cold Czech lager, and a side salad or pickled vegetables for contrast. Don't forget the napkins!

Na zdraví!

Recipe: T. Johnston-O'Neill
Photos: Shari K. Johnston-O'Neill